The Martha Clutch

I was inspired by a page of clutches featured in a Martha Stewart Weddings Magazine. I really liked the one with the ruffle down the middle, so I sketched a plan and decided on the dimensions my clutch will have. I used a 9 inch vintage metal zipper for this clutch because I like to incorporate vintage, fair trade and/or organic materials as much as possible.

DSCF3523

The fabric I choose is a fair trade handwoven silk bought from Tammachat, an Etsy shop buying from Thailand. The fabric is very heavy. It is probably a 6 or 7 oz. fabric. It is really a little too heavy for this project but I love the natural gold color. The check wool is from a vintage Japanese kimono wool.

DSCF3439-001Here are all of the pieces cut out. I am using the Gold silk as my lining and as the ruffle down the front.

DSCF3551I used a bias tape maker to make the piece that will be top-stitched onto the ruffle.

DSCF3564

The ruffle is made from two strips sewn on each side and then turned inside-out. I then ironed the ruffle flat.

DSCF3565DSCF3561

Using large stitches, because of the weight of the fabric, I made a gather down the middle of the ruffle strip. In retrospect, I probably should have made two parallel gathers.

DSCF3577

I pinned the smaller strip of wool down the middle of the gathered gold silk. I pinned the ruffle to the middle of the kimono wool piece that will become the outside of the clutch. Then, I topstitched the strip and ruffle to the outside piece of the kimono wool.DSCF3590 DSCF3594DSCF3607

Here I have laid out the pieces to attach the zipper. This is the outside of the bag with the ruffle attached. I am using one piece that I will fold in half, rather than two pieces, because I wanted the ruffle to be one continuous piece without a seam running through it at the bottom.

DSCF3614

Two tabs are sewn onto either end of the zipper.DSCF3615 DSCF3616 DSCF3622

I pinned the zipper to one side of the fabric and the lining and sewed them together.

DSCF3624DSCF3627

Pull the zipper open about half-way before you sew the lining piece and zipper to the other side. If you don’t you won’t be able to turn it right side out.

DSCF3628

DSCF3629

After the zipper is in place, sew the sides of the lining and outside while everything is inside out. Leave a gap in the lining to pull everything through when you turn it right side out. Hand sew the gap closed after it is turned right side out.

DSCF3638

For a decorative pull, I am using waxed linen thread and some vintage Czech beads. I think the colors match the kimono wool.

DSCF3472-001DSCF3660

Et voila!  My version of the Martha Stewart Weddings clutch:

DSCF3671

Zipper works! And beautiful lining is peeking through the opening.DSCF3672 DSCF3673

Notice the front and back are different because of the patterns in the wool.

DSCF3678 DSCF3682

 

Smoking Geisha Jacket

This is a cropped jacket I made last summer. I purchased two 60 inch panels of Japanese silk tsumugi at auction from a dismantled vintage kimono. The silk is beautiful, but as it is vintage, it has flaws including water stains and a cigarette burn.

DSCF5763

DSCF5759

DSCF5766

With exactly enough fabric to make this jacket I really had to get creative with the cutting layout. Unfortunately, as I was cutting out the cuff on the right sleeve I noticed a tiny scorched hole in the fabric and I imagined it was made by a smoking geisha who once wore this silk. You can imagine my frustration as I did not have any fabric to spare. I turned the fabric over so the hole is on the underside of the cuff. It is not noticeable unless you know it is there. 

Dressed for an Odori, 1920s  A Geiko (Geisha) in costume for an Odori (Dance) as a country girl, smoking a pipe and carrying a basket of flowers on her back.

Dressed for an Odori, A 1920s Geiko (Geisha) in costume for an Odori (Dance) as a country girl, smoking a pipe and carrying a basket of flowers on her back.


I lined the jacket in handwoven raw silk tsumugi from Japan from an unused vintage bolt I also bought at auction. The pattern did not call for a lining, but I felt it would make the jacket a little more formal. It almost looks like an 18th century jacket with the three-quarter length bell-sleeves and gathered skirt.

Jacket  Date: 1770s Culture: British Medium: silk Dimensions: Length at CB: 17 in. (43.2 cm) Credit Line: Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 2010 Accession Number: 2010.342
 1770’s British Silk Jacket. Made from Chinese Silk. http://www.meg-andrews.com/item-details/Girls-Chinese-Silk/7308
Girl's Chinese Silk
1770’s British Silk Jacket. Made from Chinese Silk. The jacket front closes with hook-and-eye closures. http://www.meg-andrews.com/item-details/Girls-Chinese-Silk/7308

My jacket was made from a Japanese pattern in this book. I love this pattern because it is simple and feminine. It was easy to adapt this pattern to the width of the kimono fabric which is typically about 14 1/2 inches wide.

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

Here is another jacket I adapted from this pattern design. This jacket is unlined. I used strips of wool kimono fabric and a bias tape maker to cover all of the seams. These were machine sewn on one side and hand stitched on the other. I used a hook and eye closure at the neckline. The floral fabric is a vintage silk tsumugi from a dismantled kimono. I used two 60 inch kimono panels to make this jacket in a women’s size small.

IMG_3803

IMG_3781

IMG_3793