DSCF5759

Smoking Geisha Jacket

Dressed for an Odori, 1920s  A Geiko (Geisha) in costume for an Odori (Dance) as a country girl, smoking a pipe and carrying a basket of flowers on her back.

Dressed for an Odori, A 1920s Geiko (Geisha) in costume for an Odori (Dance) as a country girl, smoking a pipe and carrying a basket of flowers on her back.

This is a cropped jacket I made last summer. I purchased two 60 inch panels of Japanese silk tsumugi at auction from a dismantled vintage kimono. The silk is beautiful, but as it is vintage, it has flaws.

DSCF5763

DSCF5759

DSCF5766

With exactly enough fabric to make this jacket I really had to get creative with the cutting layout. Unfortunately, as I was cutting out the cuff on the right sleeve I noticed a tiny scorched hole in the fabric and I imagined it was made by a smoking geisha who once wore this silk. You can imagine my frustration as I did not have any fabric to spare. I flipped the cuff so the hole is on the underside, barely noticeable unless you know it is there. I lined the jacket in a cream colored handwoven raw silk tsumugi from Japan from an unused vintage bolt I also bought at auction. The pattern did not call for a lining, but I felt it would make the jacket a little more formal.

It almost looks like this 18th century jacket with the three-quarter length bell-sleeves and gathered skirt.

Jacket  Date: 1770s Culture: British Medium: silk Dimensions: Length at CB: 17 in. (43.2 cm) Credit Line: Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 2010 Accession Number: 2010.342
 1770’s British Silk Jacket. Made from Chinese Silk. http://www.meg-andrews.com/item-details/Girls-Chinese-Silk/7308

My jacket was made from a Japanese pattern in this book. I love this pattern because it is simple and feminine. It was easy to adapt this pattern to the width of the kimono fabric which is typically about 14 1/2 inches wide.

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

One Day Sewing Summer Clothes 2007

Here is another jacket I adapted from this pattern. This jacket is unlined. I used strips of wool kimono fabric and a bias tape maker to cover all of the seams so that all of the seams were covered or bound. These were machine sewn on one side and hand stitched on the other. I used a hook and eye closure at the neckline. The floral fabric is a from a vintage silk tsumugi kimono. I used two 60 inch kimono panels to make this jacket in a women’s size small.

IMG_3803

One thought on “Smoking Geisha Jacket

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s